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Thursday, May 22, 2008

Rediscovering the Barbershop


Photo by LemonSunrise

For the past few months, I’ve been having my haircut at various barbershops. For most of my life, I went to unisex salons that reeked of perm chemicals and mousse. Every time I’d go, I’d walk away with a bad haircut. On top of that, I always felt out of place. Most of the clients were usually women and a woman was cutting my hair. I’d just go in, sit there silently while the person cut my hair, and leave.

I don’t know why I stopped going to a barbershop. As a child, I went to a barbershop on the main street in my hometown. It was called “The Friendly Barbershop.” I remember being fascinated with all the barber stuff. What I remember most though, was the distinct manliness of the place. Even as a young child, I could sense that a barbershop was a cool hang out for men. Twenty years later, I’m rediscovering the barbershop. You should too.

A Brief History of Barbershops

The 1880’s to the 1940’s were the golden age for barbershops. During this time, men socialized in all male hangouts, and barbershops rivaled saloons in popularity. Visiting the barbershop was a weekly, and sometimes daily habit. Men would stop in not only for a haircut and a shave, but also to fraternize with friends and chew the fat.

During this golden age, barbershops were classy places with often stunning surroundings. Marble counters were lined with colorful glass blown tonic bottles. The barber chairs were elaborately carved from oak and walnut, and fitted with fine leather upholstery. Everything from the shaving mugs to the advertising signs were rendered with an artistic flourish. The best shops even had crystal chandeliers hanging from fresco painted ceilings.

Despite this level of luxury, barbershops were homey and inviting. A memorable and heavenly man aroma filled the air. The smell of cherry, wintergreen, apple, and butternut flavored pipe and tobacco smoke mixed with the scent of hair tonics, pomades, oils, and neck powders. These aromas became ingrained in the wood and every cranny of the shop. The moment a man stepped inside, he was enveloped in the warm and welcoming familiarity. He was immediately able to relax, and as soon as the hot lather hit his face, his cares would simply melt away.

The Decline

Photo by Curtis!

The first blow to barbershops came in 1904 when Gillette began mass marketing the safety razor. Their advertisements touted the razor as more economical and convenient than visiting the barbershop. The use of safety razors caught on, and during World War I, the US government issued them along with straight razors to the troops. Having compared the two razors size by side, upon returning home from the front many soldiers discarded both the straight razor and their frequent trips to the barbershop. Going to the barber for a shave became a special occasion instead of a regular habit.

In the decades after WWI, several other factors combined to weaken the place of the barbershop in society. Companies like Sears began selling at-home haircutting kits, and mom began cutting Junior’s and Pop’s hair. Then the Depression hit, and people cut back on discretionary spending like barber shaves. The loss of male lives in the World and Korean wars also shrunk barbers’ pool of clientèle. Then in the 1960’s Beatlemania and the hippie culture seized the country, and hairstyles began to change. Men started to grow their hair longer and shaggier, and their visits to the barber became infrequent or non-existent.

Even when short hair came back into style during the 1980’s, men did not return en masse to the barbershop. Instead, a new type of hairdresser siphoned off the barbers’ former customers: the unisex salon. Places like “SuperCuts” which were neither beauty salons nor barbershops, catered to both men and women. Many states’ licensing boards accelerated this trend by ceasing to issue barber licenses altogether and instead issuing a unisex “cosmetologist” license to all those seeking to enter the hair cutting profession.

Why Every Man Should Go To A Barber Shop


Photo by Curtis!

A barber knows how to cut a man’s hair. If you’re like most men these days, you’re probably going to some unisex chain salon like Supercuts. I used to do it too. Most of the time, I’d walk out of these places with a crappy haircut. Sometimes, my haircut would look decent for the first week or so, but then it would grow out into a horrible bowl.

The problem is that many of the people who work at salons are not trained barbers. They’re cosmetologists. The difference between the two can spell the difference between a dopey-looking haircut and a great one.

A barber is trained to cut with clippers, the main tool in cutting a man’s hair. Cosmetologists, on the other hand, are trained to use scissors. Their training is also geared towards catering to women’s hair. They become experts in styling, coloring, and perming- things a man has no need for. That’s why when you ask the cute stylist at SuperCuts to use the number 2 on the clippers, you walk away with a bad haircut. She’s probably not well versed in how to use them. But a barber can employ the clippers with finesse.

It’s a great place to chew the fat with other men. When I went to hair stylists, I hardly ever talked to the woman who cut my hair. I’d chat about my family and theirs and that’s about it. The woman who cut my hair usually ended up chatting it with the other women in the salon, while I sat there awkwardly.

Barbers, on the other hand, are interesting guys with interesting stories to tell. On my visits to the barber shop, I’ve met a retried Army Ranger colonel, a musician who spent 13 years on the road in a jazz band, and a man who is the third generation in his family to take up the profession. Each of them had fascinating stories to share. And I in turn feel at ease to say what’s on my mind. There is conversation about politics, cars, sports, and family. Guys read the newspaper and comment on current events. In between the banter, jokes are told and laughs are had. And everyone is involved: the barbers, the customers getting their haircut, and the customers waiting to get their haircut. Adding to the enjoyment is that a variety of men take part in the conversation; young, old, and middle-aged join in the mix.

I think there’s a good argument that barbershops are among America’s last civic forums Where do people go today just to talk with others in the community? Coffee shops? Every time I go to a coffee shop, people are at their own tables minding their own business. The only other place that I can think of is a bar, but bars are now co-ed instead of being bastions of manliness. Graduate student, Melissa Harris-Lacewell, wrote an article about how discussions in traditionally black barbershops shape political ideas in the African-American community. She noted how political debate in barbershops can be vigorous and engages young and old alike. Unfortunately, white Americans are missing out on this experience. So, if you’re wanting to get your thumb on the pulse of civic life in your community, head over to the barbershop.

You can get a great shave. Many barbershops still give traditional single blade razor shaves. You haven’t lived until you’ve experienced the pleasures of a great shave at a barber. This past weekend, I went to a barber here in town to get a shave. I reclined in the plush old school barber chairs that had ash trays in the arm rests, a throw back to a time when people could smoke in public places. Then my shave commenced. The barber first wrapped a hot towel around my face. Next, the barber massaged in a lemon based cream to clean out my pores.

After that, several more hot towels were applied. By then, I was feeling nice and relaxed, on the verge of falling asleep relaxed. The barber then massaged in some cocoa butter to soften my beard. Next, the barber brushed a warm lather into my beard that smelled like man and not like that crappy artificial goo you buy in a can. The barber then took a piece of razor sharp metal and scraped my beard off for the closest, best shave I’ve ever had. Allowing another man to hold a razor to your neck is a good way to remind yourself that you’re alive.

To finish it all off, I got another hot towel wrapped on my face along with a final face massage with a soothing vanishing cream. When I stepped out of the shop, I felt like a new man, ready to take on the world.

It’s a great activity to do with your father or son. Men need traditions that can help bond them together. Visiting the barbershop with your father or son is a great tradition to begin in your family. Many men have been going to the same barber all their life and have introduced their sons to the same chair and the same barber. What a great way to bond with the men in your life!

You’ll feel manlier. Every time I go to the barber shop I just feel manlier. I don’t know what it is. Perhaps it’s the combination of the smell of hair tonics and the all-man atmosphere. But more so, it’s the awareness of the tradition of barbershops. Barbershops are places of continuity; they don’t change with the shifts in culture. The places and barbers look the same as they did when your dad got his hair cut. It’s a straightforward experience with none of the foofoo accouterments of the modern age. There are no waxings, facials, highlights, or appointments. Just great haircuts and great conversation.

When you walk out of the barber shop with a sharp haircut, you can’t help but feel a bit of manly swagger creep into your step. So next time you spot that familiar red and white striped pole, stop in. You’ll be glad you did.

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How To Open a Beer Without an Opener


You’ve just spent the last 10 hours helping your buddy move into his new apartment or you’ve returned to your campsite after hiking in the summer heat all day long…and it’s time to reward yourself with a cold beer. You can practically taste the suds as you hold the bottle in your own hand. Only one problem: YOU DON’T HAVE A BOTTLE OPENER! Panic sets in as your buddy explains that his opener is buried inside one of the 50 boxes you just finished lugging up two flights of stairs, or you picture your opener at home sitting alone on the counter, a worthless tool in a beer-free landscape.

But all hope is not lost. The following list has several simple and inventive ways to use everyday objects to crack off that bottle cap without breaking glass or ruining the dental work your parents paid dearly for. Most all of these items utilize a solid edge to work against the bottle’s cap and are closer at hand than you might even realize…

Buckle up.
  1. Hopefully you aren’t the type who walks around with your pants falling off your hips – which means you’re probably rocking a belt in the waist-land! Your belt’s buckle can also function as a bottle opener, and here’s how to do it.

    • Take off your belt. You don’t want to try any sudden jerking motions with glass in that area of your body, do you?
    • Fit an edge of the buckle tightly over the cap.
    • Using your thumb, push hard up on the other edge of the buckle, which should pry the cap right off.
    • Drink. And put your belt back on before your pants sag and you ruin the party for everyone.
    • 'Course if you're slick, you can always ask the hottest chick to lend you hers. This way you're closer to third base and your cold brew all in one shot.
  2. The lighter of my life.



    You keep promising you’re going to give up smoking and arson. But you’ll be glad you haven’t yet, as your trusty lighter can now aid your pursuit of other vices. All you smokers finally have your opportunity to shine. Just whip out your trusty Bic and get to popping them caps off.

    • Take out your lighter and prop the bottom of it (NOT the metal top) against the cap’s edge.
    • Gripping the bottleneck tightly, push up on the cap with the edge of your lighter. This should loosen the cap, if not completely pop it off. If it doesn’t take the cap off right away, turn the bottle slightly in your hand and apply pressure to another area of the cap.
    • Drink up. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em. Celebrate your weakness for tobacco and booze.
  3. Keynotes. This is the most likely item you’ll have at your disposal. Here’s how to do it:
    • Grab the bottle in one hand and your key in the other. Use a key whose teeth you can wedge nice and tight between the cap and the bottle’s neck.
    • As hard as you can, twist the key under the cap and pull the side of the cap away from the bottle. This will produce a tiny gap between the cap and bottle.
    • Now that you’ve got that first gap, repeat this process on another part of the cap to create another gap.
    • Repeat this process until you get halfway around the cap.

      By this point, you should be able to simply grip the cap with your fingers and thumb and twist off. If not, keep twisting the key under the cap until you’ve loosened the cap enough to get that sucker off.

  4. Paper dreams. Let’s say you’ve got nothing on hand except ingenuity and a few greenbacks. While you might prefer a 50, it's all the same to your beer. Here’s what to do:
    • Take said bill and fold it up several times over, until all you’re left with is a tightly-compressed piece, which should resemble a “V” shape (two folded bits that meet in one sharp, tight corner).
    • Take the "V" and wedge the corner of its fold into the bottle cap.
    • Jerk the bill up as hard as you can, which will result in the cap popping off.
    • Although this works with dollar bills, the bigger piece of paper you have to work with, the stronger your cap-popping wedge will be.
  5. Dog collar days. Well you’re a beltless, keyless, paperless, pink-lunged wonder who’s still longing for that beer. Got a dog? Take it by the collar, pet its soft head, then remove that collar because its tiny buckle can help you out! You’ll basically be performing a variation on the belt buckle system listed above – it just takes a bit longer because chances are your dog’s collar buckle is a bit smaller than your belt’s. And if you’ve got a lap dog, a cat, or some other critter smaller than a bread box, his collar probably won’t do much good. It’s medium-to-large breed or bust in this instance!
  6. Ring-a-ding-ding. A metal ring of any sort is the perfect tool in this instance because its tiny metal edges can be leveraged to defeat any bottle cap. This is how:
    • Keeping your ring on, grasp the top of the bottle in your hand.
    • Close your hand over the cap, gripping it so that the edge of your ring is flush against the bottom of the cap.
    • Keeping your grip tight, lift up. The edge of the ring will peel off the cap and open the bottle.
    • Be wary of using your wedding band. It is one thing to explain to your other half staying out late drinking with your friends. It is a whole different story explaining the gouges in your wedding ring.
  7. Flip your lid. Thank God you’re wearing that ball cap to keep the sun off your face or the sweat out of your eyes. But did you know the bill can act as a temporary bottle opener? Here’s how:
    • Take your cap off and grip the bill tightly in your hand, squeezing it together so that the rim of the bill makes a rounded “u” shape.
    • Press the rim up against the cap. With a strong jerk of the wrist, flip up the bill, which will rip the cap off the bottle top.
    • Drink. Put your hat back on. Assume frat boy posturing.
  8. Bumper crop. If you (or someone you know) has a vehicle that isn't simply fiberglass-and-plastic on wheels, then a metal bumper is also an easy tool to use to free your beer from its bottled prison.
    • Simply align the cap against the edge of the bumper.
    • Putting pressure on the cap with the hand that holds the bottle, strike the bottle with your free hand a few inches from the cap – the blunt force should cause the cap to pop right off.
    • Drink fast, as the action will cause your suds to come rushing from the bottle’s mouth.
  9. Bottle rock it. Where there’s one beer, there are sure to be several more. This bodes well for your predicament, as this is probably the simplest, most efficient way to get that beer cap off, and no one’s teeth, fashion accessories, or Chevy Impalas are needed for success!
    • Simply place the cap of one bottle just under the edge of another bottle’s cap.
    • Jerk down hard on the bottle on top – the cap will pop off against the cap underneath.
    • Drink up… just be sure you have another unopened bottle to help you open the next beer!

Despite the initially grim prospect of being unable to open your beer bottle without a proper opener, the above steps will help you achieve beer-drinking nirvana with a few simple, handy, everyday items sure to be within your reach. All it takes is an open mind, a sharp edge or two, and a little hand-jive, and you’ll soon be known as the “MacGyver” of the brew world.

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Clean Diesel Cars Coming to US This Fall: 2008-2010 Timeline


New diesels will get better mileage and have cleaner emissions than your average car. Pictured above: 2009 Jetta SportWagen 2L TDI Clean Diesel.

Later this year (see the timeline below), we will finally begin to see an influx of new model diesels in the United States. While diesels make up 50% of the market share of vehicles in Europe, they’re still trying to shrug off the stigma of being dirty, noisy beasts here in the US. So what changed?

What are “clean” diesels?

In 2006, the EPA required the introduction of Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD), which removed a major polluting component of diesel fuel. Since sulfur would damage advanced emissions control systems, ULSD paved the way for better emissions control technology.

As early as August, we will start to see a new era of diesels that employ new technology to meet the strictest emissions standards in the world—BIN5/LEV II—which are enforced by 5 US states: California, Massachusetts, Maine, New York, and Vermont. BIN5/LEV II standards severely cap nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions (0.05 g/mile), one of the two tailpipe pollutants that have given diesels a bad rap (that and particulate matter).

Newer filters in these emissions systems trap particulate matter, while each model uses it’s own method to process NOx. Several models, including those from BMW, Mercedes, and Audi, will require the maintenance of a six- to eight-gallon tank of urea. The ammonia-rich solution (for example: Mercedes BlueTEC) is injected into exhaust to neutralize smog-forming nitrogen oxides. Since the urea tanks only require replenishing every 12,000 miles or so, inconvenience seems minimal, and some models, like Honda and VW diesels, meet emissions requirements without them.

While you might expect most of these diesels to get exceptional mileage, some of them do surprisingly poor. For example, the Mercedes and Audi models only get around 18/25 MPG (making this a good reason to continue to avoid SUVs). I know that the new emissions technology is supposed to negatively affect mileage, but 25 MPG is unimpressive, considering that VW’s Jetta BlueTDI got a road tested 60 MPG.

While the high price of diesel fuel is eating into some of the economic advantage of buying a new diesel vehicle, the difference is offset by mileage gains of 25 to 40% over comparable gas models. You might not see too much difference in sticker prices, either. Some models could cost $1,500 to $3,500 more for this new emissions control technology, but VW says it’s Jetta SportWagens could cost $2,000 less. Also be on the lookout for Federal tax credits that could be as large as $3,400 per vehicle.

When can we expect to see clean diesels in the US? Here’s the timeline:

1. Volkswagen2009 Jetta BlueTDI, Clean Diesel

  • When: August 2008
  • Models: 2009 Jetta BlueTDI sedans and SportWagens
  • Engine: 2-liter turbodiesel in-line 4
  • Est. Mileage: 33/46 m.p.g. Sedan road tested at 60 MPG.
  • Est. Base Price: $22,000 to $25,000

2. MercedesMercedes ML320, clean diesel

3. BMWBMW 335D, Clean Diesel

4. Audi

Audi Q7, clean diesel

  • When: January 2009
  • Models: Q7 3.0 TDI utility wagon
  • Engine: 3-liter turbodiesel V-6
  • Est. Mileage: 18/25 m.p.g.
  • Est. Base Price: $53,000

5. Honda (yes it’s true)

Honda Accord Clean Diesel

  • When: 2009
  • Models: Acura TSX sedan, other models could follow
  • Engine: 2.2-liter i-DTEC
  • Est. Mileage: 34/53 MPG
  • Est. Base Price: ?

6. Jeep

Jeep Grand Cherokee

7. General Motors/Ford/Dodge

8. Nissan

2009 Nissan Maxima Sedan

9. Subaru

  • When: 2010
  • Models: Legacy sedan or Outback wagon
  • Engine: 2-liter turbodiesel flat 4
  • Est. Mileage: 33/47 m.p.g. (Outback)
  • Est. Base Price: $28,000 (Outback)

    Subaru Diesel

Header Photo Credit: VW

For more, see: Diesel Engines Clean Up for an Encore (New York Times)

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