Written by A.Ragan
Ninety percent of the world’s fish larger than your forearm are now gone!
Back when I was a wee child, and for many years after, I was my father’s favorite son. Which is odd, since I’m female as all get out. But because of organized sports, attitude and other things – my brothers weren’t as much in the custodial constant as I was, and hence I became what I still refer to as “ballast.” What this means is, I read books while dear old dad fished. We fished for fresh water fish from land and boat. We fished for saltwater fish from shore and sea. I lost a lot of lunches during humiliating pre-teen trips here and there – sea legs just weren’t my thing – but I never lost the love of fresh fish. Grilled. Broiled. Baked. Poached. Fried. I’m drooling here.
However, nothing is simple anymore. Kids can’t even walk without a helmet. Dogs are kidnapped. The world has become a more dangerous place everywhere you look. And loving fish (which sounds terribly concerning) isn’t as easy as it used to be. In fact, it has become almost a gamble of trust and shrewd research. From the contaminants that will eat your brain, to the complete evaporation of species at mind-boggling speeds – the scene is pretty complex.
Gone is the day when those small boats could make a living near shore and fresh fish was plentiful. Gone are the days when you could just buy what was on sale without asking questions. But wait, at the same time, we’re being told to eat more fish for our health. What the heck is a girl to do, short of raising her own in the bathtub? Which I’m sure has its black marks, too. Probably starting with the whole personal hygiene thing.
Well, Veronica, there are more sustainable methods of catch, approved fisheries and species that are quite simply more robust to choose from. Duh, right? Not exactly. The fish you see on sale don’t always have a resume. They could have been harvested by a growing number of environmental rapists or be poisoned. Hey, I know it sounds harsh. But ask any avid fisherman, outdoor hobbyist or hunter – wildlife management is a moral obligation, not a choice.
The bad is big. The bad is our own fault. Yours and mine. So before you say, “I can’t do anything about it.” Find out if you’ve already been part of the problem and let the guilt move you to change your habits. I know you’re a good person. I know you mean well. But action talks louder, eh? And it’s not all your own fault. The great god advertising (to whom I sacrifice many hours a day) has put its foot into a few situations by popularizing specific moneymakers which leads to sketchy practices for profits. One in particular, but we’ll get to that in a moment.
Your restaurant entrée or dinner selection may be funding the worst of the offenders. Mine, too. Ease up there, I’m not pointing fingers – just letting you know. And no one is immune. Mr. Al Gore just ordered a trendy, yet unattractive fish for his daughter’s wedding. The fact that it also happens to be one of the world’s most endangered species was, apparently, news to him. Bad for him. Bad for his image. But mostly, bad for the oceans, the fisherman and the planet’s future. Now that’s an inconvenient truth.
Chilean Sea Bass or Patagonian Toothfish not so sexy now is it?
In fact, the Chilean Sea Bass story is perfect to describe the overall situation. An American trendsetter, it hit the menus and palates of restaurant customers where they live – the hip spot. Which was due, in part to the kiss of death called versatility, which boosted “profitability.” Good for the people catching it, good for the restaurants – not so good for the fish. Before being almost fished out of existence, it was white-hot trendy. What’s scary is now that it’s endangered and rare – therefore more expensive – it’s actually gained “snob appeal.” The poor thing can’t catch a break.
But that’s not the best part. Get this; there is no “Chilean Sea Bass.” Never has been. We made it up. Not “we” as in me and my pal Bob, but “we” in the business of advertising and marketing. The less glamorous, true name of the whitefish in question is the Patagonian Toothfish. Frankly, if it’d been my pitch, I might have stayed with that, it’s got some character. Anyway, what it comes down to is that the neither sea bass nor strictly Chilean fish (in Chile as a matter of fact, the ugly fish is an avoided food source) has become a pretty easy way to illustrate the whole ugly problem of unchecked fishing. Wait a sec though, before I forget, here’s another quickie that’ll knock your socks off – ever eat Orange Roughy? Its real name is the Slimehead. Not quite as sexy as you first thought is it? I doubt you’d order it as quickly is all I’m saying. Would kinda put a damper on the whole feel of the wedding menu.
Getting back to the PT (typing Patagonian Toothfish is killing me), there’s a book I can recommend that will, for those interested, give you the long version of this story – and scare the pants off anyone who cares about sustainability: Hooked: A True Story of Pirates, Poaching, and the Perfect Fish, by Bruce Knecht. He gets to the truth the longer more interesting way with all of the gory details. Plus, it’s a good book to take out on the boat. Some habits never die.
Me, I’m about the short version, but here’s a hint of the kind of abuses that the poor ugly PT chasers have perpetuated beyond simply over fishing the poor things to endangered levels. On a side note, I have most gratefully stolen these from Wikipedia who had stolen them from The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN). Both good places to spend a little time on this subject, if I do say so.
Anyway, according to the IUCN report, it is not uncommon that they (poachers of PT, not stealers of factoids) actually use dynamite to rid themselves of annoying and competitive Sperm and Killer whales in the area where they’re fishing. Now that’s pretty evil. And evidently albatross and petrels (yes, also endangered) get caught up in the melee as well, with bad results. And while we’re at it, because it’s big money, additional crimes come into play. Not to mention the ruin to habitats and livelihoods. These are the bad people in the neighborhood seafood aisle. Which is why it’s important you pay attention.
I know. I know. What you want to know is “Can’t I just get a PT that has been caught legally and then call it whatever I want?” Sure. If you’re willing to hire a detective to trace that exact fish back to it’s source. Good luck. The easier answer is to avoid the main culprits and buy alternatives. After all, it’s the trendiness and popularity in most cases – definitely the PT case – that encourages overfishing in the first place. A rose by any other name is still gonna cost $20 a dozen ($50 with delivery). But you want fish, not flower prices. I’m getting to that, I promise. It’s not as hard as it sounds. Let me finish scaring the crap out of you first.
When I said that’s just the beginning of what’s wrong, I wasn’t kidding. Overfishing and illegal practices may be slowly killing the ocean habitat, and us but there are faster ways afoot, to boot. (I’m sorry, but everything here is so gloomy and tense, I just had to make a foot joke. It won’t happen again.) There’s also the whole “poisoning the ocean” absorbed toxins factor.
The “safe” levels of the favorite offenders may vary (I love the idea of a safe amount of poison). Everybody’s favorites, PCBs and mercury are the usual suspects. And where do they love to congregate in fish? Fat. The same “good fat” that makes your doctor say, “Eat more fish.” It’s like they are all out to kill us isn’t it? But don’t get angry with me, I’m here to help as well as spread paranoia.
In case those the toxic twins aren’t concerning enough – those who really like a horror movie should checkout the Center for Disease Control website (CDC.gov) and search marine toxins. Oi. Take a date and popcorn; it’s a screamer. But that’s a whole other story. In a nutshell, algae toxins are infecting larger (over 5lb) grouper, red snapper, barracuda and mackerel. There’s no way to tell if your fish is infected, and people have died.
Okay. Enough terror and depression. Back to hunger and sustainability. What the heck are you gonna do about it? Do I expect you to go out and strap yourself to a whale with picket signs? Give up fish despite what your doctor says, not to mention your stomach? Nah. But do consider that in most cases, profit drives habitat and species destruction. Your dollar can make a difference. But you have to be aware and ask questions. Even at restaurants.
Do I think you should carry a list around with you all the time? Maybe. I’ve heard crazier suggestions. There are some downloadable card size options available - free. I like the one at mbayaq.org, under Seafood Watch. And if you want to compare (a highly recommended activity) there’s one at the Environmental Defense Fund website (edf.org), under Seafood Selection of all things. And because I love threesomes (of information, ya perverts!), there’s another pocket guide at coopamerica.org listed under Living Green. That’s pretty simple, no? It’s a start. I have lists of things to do, lists of books to buy, lists of habits to cultivate – what’s one more list?
Mostly, my advice is just chill. Get used to using your noggin and your stomach will come out of this happy as a – shellfish or something. You can pretty easily avoid the worst culprits and focus on the easy positives. In some cases, like halibut - the where turns out to be just as important than the what. Pacific, good. Atlantic, bad. Sometimes – Does it never get simpler??! – it’s even about the how.
But don’t despair, lazy folks. There are obvious cheats beyond the card lists. Like shopping at a place that cares enough to research their sources – if they do, they’ll be telling you about it. And you may be paying a bit more. Not necessarily, but it’s for your health. Mine, too. Or start looking for labels that point out sustainable, safe seafood – including ones from the Marine Stewardship Council (msc.org) and sustainablefishery.org, not to mention Seafoodsafe.com, who actually tests PCB and mercury levels in fish.
Now, I promised a quick answer. And I lied somewhat didn’t I? Sorry about that, but it seemed important to spill the whole shebang. I’ll make it up to you. Here’s a top line list of the best (for you and the environment) and worst (same deal) fish. If you get nothing else from this – learn what to avoid, though. And use real butter. Trust me. And garlic. Garlic has never hurt anyone, on purpose.
Top 10 Most Sustainable Fish To Eat
Actually it is top ten best fish plus 2. Because I wanted a top ten list, but a lot of these are very commonly available, and I am just trying to make up for the long-winded stuff above. Also one of the best things you can do for the environment is to shop local. The list below is based on average U.S. national consumption. If you really want to make a difference download this list of sustainable fish for your area. [ Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Regional List ]
Arctic Char (farmed)
Yeah! Good salmon and rainbow trout substitute here kids. And the land-based, closed system farming methods don’t strain the marine environment or promote infections to wild species. Yum!
Catfish (US farmed)
US catfish farms are sustainable, closed system, grain fed wonders. Their farming has been monitored and uses low-pollution methods, recycled resources and even humane killing practices. I wouldn’t try it literally, but it’s a feel good fish for the most part. There is some worry about predatory birds attracted to these farms and being (how shall we say) “discouraged” illegally. But for now, eat up. Fried is nice.
Clams, Mussels, Oysters (farmed)
Now this is pretty cool. These shellfish farms are actually beneficial to the environment! Because they filter water, they remove nitrogen (the cause of massive plankton blooms from runoff). They provide essential habitat for other marine plants and animals. And they taste good. That last one is pretty key to my ideas of conservation.
Halibut: Pacific
Two good things about Pacific Halibut. There’s a lot of’m. There should continue to be because the International Pacific Halibut Commission (IPHC), a joint United States-Canada organization, regulates fishing. There is some mercury concern, but hey- nobody’s perfect.
Lobster: Spiny (US)
It’s a rock… rock lobster! You know where it never rains? In Southern California, that’s right. And that’s where these are being raised under good management overseen and approved by The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). Get me one. Oh god, butter!!
Pollock (Wild Alaskan)
It’s mild, white flaky and lovely. It’s what they make that fake crabmeat out of and versatile as all get out. Mid-water trawling catches them and according to the National Marine Fisheries Service, the Alaskan Pollock is being managed sustainably!! In fact, here’s a stolen factoid from seafoodchoices.com I really like “The Alaska Pollock fishery accounts for the largest supply of consumable fish in the world.” Oh yes, this is your fried fish sandwich at the drive through. Or whatever else you want to make.
Salmon (Wild Alaska)
The wild salmon of Alaska are babies. I don’t mean that literally, but they are being eyeballed, studied, managed with care and catered to – which is awesome. These Coho or Silver Salmon are considered sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and very good for you. Go Omega!!
Scallops: Bay (farmed)
Scallops are kinky – they grow on suspensions. Which is good, because wild harvesting brutally dredged the ocean floor. New England and Canada have the best. Avoid Calico scallops – those are disappearing fast and not just from dinner tables.
Sturgeon, Caviar (farmed)
It’s been called an “environmentally friendly alternative to eating the eggs of an endangered species.” I speak of the Beluga. Who could kill such a thing? Which reminds me, snobs who know – some PREFER this caviar. They just had to try it first.
Tilapia (US farmed)
Smart folks. These are environmentally secure farms that manage water and waste well, even incorporating other species to that end. Chinese and Taiwanese farms however – not so good. Ask the question.
Trout: Rainbow (farmed)
Well regulated and monitored these are good choices. With butter. Actually with onions, peppers and a bit of garlic then butter. Oh my god, I’m drooling!!
Tuna: Albacore (US), Skipjack (troll/pole)
Tuna is touchy for some people. I know. You luuuuuuuuv it. So the least you can do is pay attention to rescuing it. No bluefin. Just don’t be that person. Troll and pole caught skipjack is awesome. Yellowfin is nice. Do you want to be around when the last bluefin is gone? Well do you? I thought not.
And now, drum roll please, the worst offenders in fishdome. Remember, this is just a quick look – but staying away from these fish can help make a difference! Remember the poor Patagonian Toothfish – it was just uneducated consumers that set off the whole chain of events and now even Al Gore is apologizing.
Top 10 Fish to Avoid
Chilean Sea Bass (Yep, Ugly PT Himself!)
Just don’t do it. It’s a white fish that’s versatile, but so is halibut just stick to the Pacific kind. This poor ugly fellah is about to disappear.
Grouper
Remember what I said about how scary the CDC site can be – recently 10 people died from tainted Grouper due to an algae toxin. Tilapia is similar, get that instead.
Monkfish
These sad, ugly bottom feeders are actually a range of fish that have been over fished. But on the bright side, you should avoid due to mercury levels as well. It’s also been mentioned that some dangerously inedible fish are being “passed off” as monkfish. Just steer clear!
Orange Roughy (Good Ol’ Slimehead)
If the name hasn’t turned you off, maybe this will. This deep-sea fish ages very slowly and reaches maturity (breeding) at 30 years of age. Due to trawling, we may not have deep-sea fish for long. There is NO SUSTAINABLE way to fish for deep-sea fish. Halibut will do nicely as a substitute – but remember, Pacific only!
Salmon (Farmed/Atlantic)
First of all, they’re fed god knows what and taste blander than their wild counterparts. Second, they boast 10X the PCBs. But that’s not all, because of the floating pens the spread parasites and diseases to the ocean and other fish. Meanwhile, the Atlantic wild salmon is almost gone – literally. Wild Pacific Salmon taste good. Eat those instead. You’re paying for a privilege of healthier oceans and food.
Shark
Sharks are magnificent. But if that isn’t enough to stop you. Consider this. The food chain. When you remove a top predator, it fails. These gorgeous toothy guys are being harvested for everything from cosmetics to virility myths. Humans kill over 100 million sharks worldwide each year.
Swordfish (Imported)
First off, longline fishing kills other species; they call it “bycatch.” So that’s bad. But when the FDA warns older, infirm and pregnant people about a mercury level in something – it kinda loses its appeal to me. You? At one point – in addition – President Clinton almost made it illegal to catch or import Swordfish. You want a steak fish? Have a nice Albacore Tuna instead.
Tilefish (Gulf of Mexico/South Atlantic)
Also sold as “golden bass” or “golden snapper” the Tilefish is also a top of the food chain predator. Which means it’s balancing the whole bio thing – and eats fish. Why does that matter –well, kid: those who eat the most other fish get the most mercury. And over fishing is a serious problem with government limitations attempting to aid in its recovery. Have a striped sea bass (farmed only) instead.
Tuna, Bigeye/Yellowfin (Imported/Longline)
US is okay* see above
Okay first off, longline fishing is a no-no for sustaining a number of endangered species. And mercury like you read about. Look for pole caught at the very least – but consider substitution with Albacore or Skipjack.
Tuna, Bluefin (US Albacore & Yellowfin is okay, though – don’t fret)
The money is here and the over fishing is rampant for bluefin. Longline fishing yet again, sigh. And a late maturing tuna. One of the worst mercury and PCB holders – plus bad karma. How about some good ol’ USA pole caught yellowtail instead?
Beyond just safe levels of carcinogens (and I do love the idea of a “safe” level of toxic things) there is the sustainable fishing scenario itself to encourage. So whenever you can, get the dirt on your fish before paying for it. Anywhere. Restaurants who care will tell you – because it’s costing them money. Ask if you’re unsure. Pull out your list and check. Don’t be shy. Personally, I’d find that endearing. Maybe even – gasp -– sexy. Plus it proves you can read. Which is a plus.
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